![]() ![]() My next task was to drain/refill the transmission and transfer case and put a new exhaust on. I've changed engine oil, flushed and changed radiator fluid (with new thermostat and water pump) and drained/flushed/filled differentials. I've been slowly cleaning her up to get her on the road. ![]() I need to order a real windshield and frame assembly.I have a '79 CJ5 I recently purchased. As for sticking to light and medium loads. I like the idea of using the knurled nuts so they don't twist and I never thought about putting them in from the back before. But the list of things to mount with rivet nuts is a long one. That will work while doing glass repair and there would be no fastener showing if its in a visible spot. I have noticed that some of the kiddie rides I work on have plastic coated soft metal tabs glassed into the under body to hold the wire harness. or maybe this body is thin or weak in some places, strong in others. Maybe one of the prior owners did a sloppy job swapping pans. The glass seems to be hard as a rock, but yet, there are places where it bolts to the pan where there are small chunks broken around empty holes. ![]() The late tail style I think, with the longer box. Maybe sticking to small and medium loads is best until I see how my body takes to it. Hi everyone, By the variety of advice on rivet nuts, it would seem I should proceed with caution. Anyone use these fasteners or have an opinion on them? My buggy wants to know. I am also considering using rubber nut inserts (Lowe's and Home Depot) but they do not have the holding power of the steel or aluminum products. Do you think this type of fastener is OK to use on a buggy body to mount tail lights, wire harness, hood hold down, etc.? With the vibration and temperature extremes buggy bodies endure, would there be any risk of cracking or would they help to prevent it by giving a larger mounting surface than screws? You can also use washers behind them (like with a rivet). Yesterday I used them on a kiddie ride to replace stripped holes where a light fixture screws to the fiberglass. They are open bottom so I installed 1/4" stainless cap head screws with plumbers putty on the threads for a water tight install. I did not want to buy another tool to do metric so I used 1/4"-20 with a wide flange head and a bit of silicone on each. Jeep uses closed bottom metric nuts for this ( Jeeps are made in Canada ). I got one at the salvage yard for $35 and installed 12 steel Polly nuts on the roof. One of our Jeep Cherokee's did not have a roof rack. They are used in everything from computer and appliance cases to auto bodies and trim. You will not find this at Home Depot or Lowe's. ![]() Some industrial suppliers sell only to commercial customers but you can usually get such a customer to buy it for you for cash. The big one is easier to squeeze when installing steel nuts but the right angle tool will reach more places. Or you can get a real Marson from your local Grainger or other industrial supplier for $85 for the small right angle tool kit or $130 for the big heavy duty straight style (tool only). You can get the tool kit from a cheap made in China tool store like Harbor Freight Tools, etc. They come in a wide variety of diameters, lengths, thread sizes, mounting thickness, flange or flush heads, aluminum or steel with closed or open bottom. And you can do it from one side (like a rivet). that is too thin or too soft to tap threads into. It lets you use machine screws and bolts in steel, plastic, fiberglass, etc. It looks and works like a rivet gun but it installs a line of products called "Polly Nuts" and "Rivet Nuts". One of the most useful tools I use is a "nut setter" from Marson Tools. Hi everybody, I am a game tech by trade and do a lot of repair on kiddie rides and motion driving games with fiberglass bodies and seats. ![]()
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